Pizza Postcard: Greetings from the Catskill Mountain Pizza Company
Ate some pizza on a recent trip to the Catskills at the infamous Woodstock
Last week I spent a few days in the Catskills with Christa, my sister Kerry and of course our beloved Charlie. The point of the trip was far from pizza. We were to hike, unplug, enjoy each other’s company, find inspiration in nature and explore the unknown. Charlie’s entire mission evolved around eating roasted marshmallows and trying to find ways back to the McDonald’s play place in Danville.
This was my first visit to the Catskills and had no idea what to inspect. The first thing I did was find the area on a map and search “pizza.” Pizza reconnaissance 101.
Sprinkled throughout the Catskills are little towns, like pepperoni cups on a large pizza. Evenly spread out, but each holding their own unique grease. Boiceville was home to the delicious artisan Bread Alone Pizza Stand which churned out amazing looking Neapolitan pizzas.
Phoenicia offered Brio’s, which looked like Neapolitan pizza by someone that has only seen blurry photos of it online. They’re doing their best. The options are slim and the towns are 20 minute drives apart so there isn’t a ton of pressure to absolutely nail your craft. Everyone seems to go with the flow and enjoys what their neighborhood haunts offer.
The neighborhoods all have their own vibe. Phoenicia bragged that “We have everything you need!” This included a pizza shop, grocery store, antique shops, ice cream, bank and a diner. We would find out that this group of shops was a staple in each little town around the mountains. The type of pizza might change slightly or the ice cream shop may have more non-dairy options, but no matter where you ended up you knew what you were getting.
On a cool afternoon we ventured up the side of a mountain to an abandoned quarry, Dibbles Quarry. This was no run of the mill abandoned mining quarry, far from it. This quarry had a mystery: thrones made of rock that you could sit on. With inspiration like that, we parked our car at an isolated trailhead, signed the park ranger guest book and headed into the woods.
Hiking with a five year old adds an extra layer of stress. Each step you’re waiting for the meltdown or the announcement of “I’m bored.” I know hiking isn’t as engaging as watching the direct to VHS Mulan 2 for the 100th time, but can’t you find a way to appreciate these stone thrones that no one knows anything about? Despite my anxiety and fear we might get eaten by a black bear, everything went great. Charlie championed the mountain wearing her signature pink dress and Hello Kitty sneakers.
After a large hike up to the top of the mountain to sit in some mysteriously made thrones, the crew got hungry. We needed nourishment. Anything to help our muscles recover after hiking a mile uphill and then a mile back down. Obviously we were thinking pizza.
We drove down the winding mountain road and followed the signs for Woodstock. Nestled in the heart of this yuppie / hippie compounds was Catskill Mountain Pizza Company. If we were going to eat pizza in the Catskill, this seemed like the signature pie.
The vibes inside was “rural pizza shop.” No one was striving to win awards or be the best. They wanted to enjoy the day, chat with locals and make solid pizza. Since we were close to NYC, I thought we might be in for a more elegant pizza experience. But the aura of the Catskills overwhelmed any NYC influence. The pizza here was fuel for hiking, pairs well with a lager, and simply satisfies.
We ordered a large pizza, half plain half pepperoni and banana peppers. We also ordered cheese sticks, a salad and a hoagie. When I mentioned the hoagie the waiter asked, “for…to go right?” And I said, “No.” None of this was to go. It was all for here. We had all clearly walked at least two miles an hour ago. We were famished.
He seemed to think if we should be allowed to order a hoagie on top of a large pizza, salad and an appetizer. Then he begrudgingly scribbled “Italian hoagie” into his pad. This is normal pizza behavior in my world. Maybe in the Catskills the patrons have daintier appetites. But adding a hoagie onto a pizza order is standard operating procedure.
Our food came out quickly. Our friendly server brought our pizza and remarked “This is some midwest pizza stuff here.” Possibly wanting to say “shit” but restrained himself infront of Charlie. Prior to this he tried engaging with her and said “It’s not Stranger Danger if you’re with your parents” and I’m still trying to decipher exactly what that means.
I haven’t ordered this type of pizza outside of the city often, but to me pepperoni and banana peppers is a classic combo. You get double spice, a nice crunchy veggie that can balance the grease of the pepperoni. It blends well and is a perfect pairing. If that’s a midwest type of pizza the rest of the world is missing out.
The pizza was exactly the kind of pizza you want post-hike. Pairs well with a cold beer, isn’t too heavy, slightly floppy and foldable. Refreshing and crushable like standing near the bottom of a waterfall. The environment changing in its presence to bring comfort and peace of mind.
The hoagie was disappointing. I thought maybe this place would warm it up. Instead you get six pounds of cold meat and cheese on a tough sesame seed roll. I did my best to work through this beast. The density and cold was a barrier, a slick rock causing me to lose my footing. My sister warned me that the hoagie would come out cold, but I thought Woodstock was wacky enough to go against the norm and toast their product. Alas, I’m the hoagie fool here.
But this is the point of exploring the world. Understanding the norms of other regions, seeing how they make their pizza and cuisine. Realizing that pepperoni and banana peppers is seen as freakish behavior outside of this area is great perspective.
This summer season I hope you’re getting out of Pittsburgh and exploring the world of pizza. Not leaving town? There’s so many great pizza spots to try within the city. The ‘77 Club is going to be at Bunker Projects this Friday in a redo of their last Bunker Projects collab. And I guess go camp outside of Rockaway Pizzeria in Regent Square?
Thanks for reading!
Pizza ya later!
-Dan Tallarico, Pizza Journalist
I haven’t thought about the direct-to-VHS Mulan 2 in a minute or possibly ever, wow.
Interesting vibe from the pizza guy! I’d check your use of the word infamous though, unless you do mean that Woodstock is well known for being a bad place.