Big Jim's In the Run Pizza Adventure
Exploring The Run and the singular pizza shop that exists nestled in the valley. Plus, Black Cat Pizza at Farmer x Baker.
The Run is a unique and overlooked aspect of Pittsburgh. Right off of Greenfield Ave, two miles from the Hazelwood Green structures and future of innovation, is a sliver of Pittsburgh nestled into a valley. A real bedroom community, unless your job is of course working at Big Jim’s. In which case you do not need to leave the square footage of the Run.
Have you been to The Run? I’m guessing not. You may jog or bike on the path connecting Panther Hollow to the South Side which cuts right by Big Jim’s. I’m passing through almost every Sunday. I begin the uptempo portion of my long runs in Oakland which gives me a nice downhill through Panther Hollow and into the run. It’s not cheating, I swear, but it’s a great confidence boost early in a long workout. And on that route I get to see Big Jim’s welcoming everyone to The Run.
I’ve never been to Big Jim’s. I never eat in the South Side and now you’re asking me to venture to The Run? For an old-school Italian place that looks like the entire Run was built around it? I’d have to wait for fate to intervene. And last weekend it finally did.
We were visiting a friend’s house in The Run for a birthday party. Big birthday blowout, beers were flowing, cans of IC Light’s Iron City were cracked open. A perfect Pittsburgh Saturday. The host and loyal reader, Chelsea, announced she placed the Big Jim’s orders. The guys all volunteered to take the walk to Big Jim’s and return with the pizza.
The guys walk to Big Jim’s, couple of beers for the sustience because open container laws don’t seem to exist in magical realm of The Run. We get to Big Jim’s, walk in and despite the quiet antiquated outside, it’s popping off in there. Stepping back into time, like walking into that photo of the shining. Family, friends everyone filling up the booth. I was stunned. I never saw anyone walk into Big Jim’s and yet it’s full of people. Do they ever leave?
The order is sitting there on the bar. Jake pays for it, grabs the two large pizzas, calzone, eggplant parmigiana and chicken fingers and we head out.
But there’s a bump in the road. Jake is stopped by…someone. Big Jim’s owner? A friend? An employee? It’s unclear. Only Jake knows what was said. We head out the door and later find out Jake invited the whole crew (and clientele?) of Big Jim’s to his party later tonight.
There’s no judgement, charm, or pretension in the The Run. That might be found in other neighborhoods, but The Run simply is. A land where desires and wants evaporate away. You live your life, talk to your neighbors and enjoy what you have.
Big Jim’s Pizza Judgement
So, the pizza. Who am I to judge Big Jim’s pizza? I’m just an outsider to The Run. An interloper who passes through every Sunday and if that trail wasn’t there I’d probably never be in The Run.
The Run lacks amenities, and everyone seems okay with that. Capitalist and entrepreneurs avoid The Run leaving the community to cultivate its own business and culture. If you want pizza in The Run Big Jim’s is your option.
In other area’s it’s worth debating what the best pizza is because there are choices, loyalties and factions. Along Butler Street you easily have half a dozen pizza shops that some claim to be the best pizza in the neighborhood. Criticism, arguments and personal introspection helps to refine those conversations.
But in the The Run where there are no choices, does it matter if I like the cheese or form factor? No, I don’t think it does. It exists and that’s enough.
Without competition Big Jims doesn’t need to innovate, push boundaries or try to be something it’s not. This is a pizza shop who is merely themselves through and through. Take it or leave it, Big Jim’s doesn’t mind.
A large pizza here, 16 slices, is $12.29 according to the website. A price so impossible and inflation-defining this day and age that if Big Jim ran for president on the platform of capping the price of pizza they would easily win.
The pizzas are covered in cheese that shifts around like wet cement. Eventually it hardens, but during the walk back cheese had spilled over to one side of the pizza. This is something those little white tables could have helped to prevent, but Big Jim’s doesn’t have time for such safety precautions.
My daughter grabbed a slice and went to take a bite and the cheese slid off in a single sheet. Maybe 100 grams worth. A hefty amount of provolone and mozzarella melded together, flopped to the floor. One of the family’s dog, who is 15 years old, grabbed the hunk of cheese and choked it down. I mentioned it to Chelsea and she said “Hey they lived a long life, this could be their last meal,” and if Big Jim’s is your last meal then that’s a life well lived.
Looking around at the party the dozens of guests were happily chowing down on Big Jim’s pizza, cutting into the calzone and having a great time. The pizza was fuel for the party fire and sometimes you just need a little sustenance to keep the fire going. Even if the quality and taste of the pizza was not good, it fit the vibe. Pairs well with cheap light beers.
If you took a pizza from Big Jim’s outside of The Run I’m fairly certain the pizza would evaporate or fade from existence. It is a special type of pizza that only exists in a world without comparison. When you begin to compare this pizza to any other shop in another part of town you have lost the battle.
If you find yourself in The Run you need to drop in for a slice, soak up the ambience and charm because it is something you may not again encounter in your lifetime.
Black Cat Pizza Heads to Aspinwall Riverfront Park
I attended the grand opening of the Aspinwall Riverfront Park last week to see my boy Pat Hodge play some songs. It was quite an event, and the park is gorgeous. Trace sells beer there and they have rotating food. I was very excited to see Black Cat Pizza there!
I’m running in a mile race tonight, so not sure I’ll make it over or if I’ll break 5:00 in the mile. Time will tell on both fronts. But if you like pizza and sitting by the river, I suggest you check out Black Cat Pizza!
Last week I had a brand new pizza shop and now I’ve had one of the oldest ones. What a wild place Pittsburgh is. Truly the Alpha and Omega of pizza.
Pizza ya later!
-Dan Tallarico, Pizza Journalist